- INSTALLATION DRAWINGS
- Installing a Nature’s Comfort Outdoor Wood Furnace
- Waterless Forced-Air Wood Furnace
The wood stove itself remains outside the house, but is connected to the home via pipes. These pipes carry heat back into the house, although they can also be used to heat greenhouses and patios. Installing an outdoor wood stove removes the odor of burning wood from your house, but keeps it at a useful distance, and keen home improvement fans might enjoy the task of installing and using their own outdoor wood stove.
This may take several hours to complete, but following a few simple steps can make it seem like an easy task. Follow the manufacturer's instructions when building the outdoor wood stove on the concrete flooring. Check that all pipes and connections can travel into the stove's frame without being damaged, and add a little bit of cement to the bottom of the stove to keep it in one place. Bury the underground insulated pipe below frost lines or just above water table level and keep underground as it enters the house. The depth of the trench varies in different regions of the country.
I have included a frost line depth chart photo below. Be completely sure about the correct depth needed before the insulated pex pipe is installed underground. Make sure to seal around the corrugated pipe to prevent water from entering. If conditions require the pipe to be above ground for entering the home, make sure to insulate thoroughly. If only one color of PEX pipe is used, label the water lines or connect and test them before back filling over pipe and lines. If you have rocky ground, make sure you use clean fill or place straw or landscape fabric around the pipe before back filling, giving extra protection against punctures.
If more than one building is to be heated, additional pipe and pump must be installed. Plumbing connections should be well insulated after installation. Cover bottom access holes as well. Install the outgoing pex line on the pump flange that is already mounted to the lower end of the circulation pump.
Add a valve to the return line so if repair or service is needed on lines or equipment, the water in the boiler can be isolated without having to be drained. Valves and PEX fittings can be purchased from Randy. For a forced air system, run the line from the pump first to the heat exchanger for the domestic hot water then to the one in the furnace plenum. For a hydronic radiant system, reverse this order. A qualified electrician must wire this boiler in accordance with the National Electrical Code. A dedicated 15amp, vac circuit needs to be installed to power the GFCI.
See controls section for an electrical diagram. The size and type of electric wire to be installed depends on the distance from the boiler to the house. If the boiler is less then feet from the house, 14 AWG UF cable is the smallest wire that may be used. A maximum of 5 amps is used by the boiler if all standard equipment is running. The extra outlet will provide a total of 10amps for convenience use.
The next example drawings are for controlling the blower on a forced air system independently of the existing heat source i. Use this example diagram if you have a typical, basic 4 wire system. Use the example drawing below if you have a 2 wire system or the thermostat is the advanced computerized type that communicates back and forth between the furnace typically found on heat pump systems. Do not use this method if your HVAC system utilizes a multi-speed blower.
All of the parts below are available through Randy. No air can be allowed to flow around it or out of the ductwork. Use adhesive backed foam tape used for insulating doors and windows to seal around the frame and foil tape to seal off the opening you make in the plenum heat for the heat exchanger. Make sure the fittings for the supply and return lines are easy to get to once the heat exchanger is installed.
You should be able to find a heat exchanger to fit most popular sizes of plenums.
If you are unable to the ductwork must be modified to accept the heat exchanger. Wear proper protective gear. Measure the width of the heat exchanger Dimension A in next diagram. Measure the thickness of the heat exchanger Dimension C. Start by cutting a hole in the side of the ductwork the thickness of the heat exchanger Dimension C and the full length of the ductwork usually Dimension A.
Metal edges are very sharp! Wear protective gloves and use caution! Slide the heat exchanger into the hole for a test fit. Ideally the header and tubes F should stick out of the plenum. Will not heat your domestic hot water. No worries about water freezing ever again! How does an outdoor furnace heat my home? The HyProTherm Outdoor Wood Furnace is designed to save the absolute most energy and provide the most comfortable heating available; not dry. It heats your home by heating a firebox surrounded by a steel air chamber.
When this air chamber reaches a preset temperature a fan controller turns on the main circulation blower our built-in furnace fan. This blower forces the air into your existing central duct system. Can also be used without any existing ductwork. How do the Thermostat Controls work?
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- How to Install an Outdoor Furnace?
The only visible addition to the heating system inside your home is a 2nd thermostat, which is located near the existing thermostat, where possible. This thermostat actuates the combustion blower of your outdoor furnace to fuel oxygen into the smoldering fire.. When the air inside the air chamber reaches the optimum temperature, a fan controller turns on the main circulation blower. This blower forces the air into your existing central duct system if you have any. The original wall thermostat turns on your original furnace, if the outside wood furnace is not in operation. Your existing furnace will take over automatically, to maintain your household temperature.
This is good if you can't get home to fill the furnace with wood or if you go on vacation. No switched and no relays to make this happen. Original Legacy Design with the smaller door. Two buried 12" pipes carry the heat to the house and the cooler return air comes back. This is standard steel duct wrapped with insulation. The insulated underground pipe looks different than this. R50 in the roof! More than a house!! It's a state-of-the-art insulation that fights heat loss three ways; radiation, conduction and convection heat losses.
Check Solarguard out at: Fed up with High Oil Propane, Electric prices? Smoke in your house? Bugs, trash, bark from carrying wood in? No more lugging wood into the house! No smoke in your house ever again! This furnace doesn't burn up the oxygen in your house or suck cold air in from outside! WOOD is still cheap! Includes an On-Site Warranty that others don't offer!! What other manufacturer offers that and who else has been around 46 years?
A lot of warranties only cover parts not labor! OR You have to ship the furnace back to the factory - at your expense. Kind of negates the warranty, doesn't it? Electrical components have their own respective parts warranty. Our most popular color - Green with Black trim. Perfect for folks whose homes have power failures often or those people with cabins, shops or homes that are left unattended.
NO risk of water freezing! No fire risk either!
Installing a Nature’s Comfort Outdoor Wood Furnace
Most people say that they pay for their furnace in 2 years or less! Where else can you get that? You've found the BEST! A water furnace is shown here for color only. Get the Bugs, Trash, Wood and Smoke outside. Your lungs will love you and your new HyProTherm! Extra large, 2 foot by 2 foot waist high loading door opening. No more bending over, straining your back to load wood!
Waterless Forced-Air Wood Furnace
We feel we build the safest furnace nothing electrical, unprotected on the outside of the furnace. These furnaces now come with a double flood light on the front black or white , for ease and safety when loading your wood at night. No forgetting to turn it off.
If it's dark outside and you go near the furnace, the lights turns on! New, nicer looking furnace! Now with nice neat looking butyl tape and grommets. Think the door isn't big enough? It is NOW at 2 feet by 2 feet! Trust me, the door is more than big enough for anything you can lift into the furnace AND the thick door frame will take a pounding as you throw them in! This plate keeps the hot air in and deflects it off the door. With very little metal to transfer heat to the door it does an excellent job of insulating the door.
The chimney is low on the firebox and exits about 1 foot from the bottom, so that the smoke - or more importantly, the gas and heat - is trapped so that it doesn't quickly escape out the flue. That would be a big loss of efficiency. This way the air has to cool off to find its way down and out the chimney.
This is also a better idea since you don't have hard-to-clean baffles getting a creosote buildup on them. When wood starts to burn it's the gas that burns first!
Another advantage is that the chimney exits through the air chamber, further heating it up - for free! That's proof, not just rhetoric. Will not crack or split like stainless steel! Compare Firebox thickness to another popular furnace at only. We have a removable ash TRAY! Some other makes don't even have an ash receptacle at all! Will not get stress cracks like Stainless Steel! We have furnaces well over 30 years old and more, still in use today!
Click on Picture for a larger image The blower in the back is a great aid in getting a fire started. A clean-burning fire is more efficient than a smoky air-restricted fire. The forced draft will burn hotter and therefore cleaner. Secondary gases burn at degrees and with our furnace, they are trapped in the firebox so that they are available to be burnt off without escaping out the chimney.
The HyProTherm will exceed that temperature. The fan blower determines how hot the fire burns and therefore how hot the air in the furnace gets. The air blows into the bottom of the fire, through the grate - just like a blacksmith's forge.