Pod hd500 hookup

IV. Pod Setup
Contents:


  1. Line 6 POD HD500 as foot controller and expression: How?
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  3. Line 6 POD HD500 Pilot's Handbook Manual
  4. Line 6 Pod HD tutorials? - Guitar Tricks Forum
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Make sure you check back to my post as I'm updating it so I don't make tracks all over this thread, lol. Other than turning it on and setting the Master, you won't touch the DT again. The 3 screens you can see by pressing the View button are the chain of effects, the setup screen and a big block screen showing bank and patch number. When you are on the setup screen, use the round Nav button to the right of the screen to scroll left and right through the other setup pages.

I know it's a pain but you do need to read the Advanced Guide and the L6 Connectivity Guide to get all this. If you don't have them, you can get them from the Manuals link on the Support page. I hate that little screen on the POD. The community has given you some very good advice, thus far. Here's a video that might help: Line 6 Dream Rig: Basic Setup and Connections.

Thank you guys, I will try all this. My friend came over. He used to sell this stuff at both of the big box shops so he has knowledge about these things. I also had another geeky friend of mine trying to help me and we all were reading the manuals and watching the videos. The first thing I would put right at the top of the Quick Start menu in big letters is to update the drivers. It took me a bunch of tries, but it finally worked right. I couldn't get the L6 screen till I did that.

I did get some info from Line 6 on FB this morning that showed me these other ways I saw. I will try those later today Maybe. When we finally did get the L6 screen on the POD to show up, I just got tired of hearing nothing and pulled the guitar plug out of the front of the amp and into the POD itself. That got us something. So I can get it to work this way, and i will try this other way about instrument out the back of the POD to the L Mono side input in the back of the amp.

There was another way they showed me too, and I'll try it. I think I'm only going to try doing anything new on this if I have somebody over here. I had these things just sitting for about six months before I even got enough nerve to mess with it. I'm just a guitar guy, I tried doing the electronic music thing with Reason. I couldn't figure out Reason, it was just too complicated for me to figure out. So I dumped all my Reason stuff in the trash. That sounds stupid, but I've also found I'm not the only one who has done that with Reason either.

I hate spending money on stuff that isn't as easy to use as they make it sound. I know for a fact that if I can figure this thing out, I could help them write a manual that most guitar players could work with. I'm not geeky, and I don't speak geek. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Sign up for a new account in our community. Already have an account?

HDX tone building videos. Templates and tones from L6 Tone Made Easy classes. Warning about downloaded tones, patches and presets. Certain Line 6 devices not detected on macOS Posted September 6, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites. Posted September 7, Now it tells me to go to the Home View knob and press it. It says I should be able to get three different screens by pressing it.

At least that is my take on what they are telling me to do. I only get two screens. Nothing that displays a big Line 6 Link on it at any rate. If I have to go about getting there another way, they sure didn't bother to write it down in the manual. This would have been the ideal place to put that information and maybe highlight it for us dummies who are still trying to figure this out.

This is why I'm ranting. So from here, I am reaching a dead end. In that case, you should see the "pre" vs. The downside is that you do not have the option to use your amp's pre-amp.

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If you want that option, you have to use the 4 cable method, described below. This is the most versatile setup for the Pod. You can run effects before or after your pre-amp, and you use either your amp's pre-amp or one of the Pod's amp models.


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Which pre-amp you are running is completely patch-dependent. You can even toggle it inside a single patch using a single footswitch on the Pod. You send your signal to the actual amp via the FX Loop effect on the Pod. You set up your patches with the Pod's FX Loop on and amp model off to use your real amp's pre-amp, or vice versa to the use the Pod's amp modeling. Effects after are post-pre-amp. For a more detailed guide, see this and this by Jim Reynolds, an especially helpful Pod HD community member.

The above settings should work well for most gear. But perhaps your gear is different, or perhaps you simply have different tastes about what is harsh or sounds good. As long as you're not running the output of a real power amp into the Pod or other effect high watt power amp output should only be run into speakers or a dummy load or sending a line level mostly anything not coming from an actual instrument signal into the Pod's instrument level Guitar In input, you probably won't break anything by experimenting.

My friend used to run his Boss multi-FX processor into his Fender amp, and he got the best tone by using the speaker simulation in the Boss unit, even though he was running into real guitar speakers. When he told me his settings, I thought, "That's not right" and tried to tweak his gear how I thought it should be set up. I could never get a better tone than what he already dialed in using the "wrong" settings. Whatever gets you the best tone and doesn't break your gear is how you should run it, no matter how many people say that your settings are "wrong".

They can help reduce highs. There may be a particular combination that sounds great with your gear. See the cab and mic selection section for general pointers about what to expect for frequency response. There's no built-in feature to do this, but you can do it with some trickery.

Set the other one up with "no cab". The simplest is to use the FX Loop effect block. Place the FX Loop at the end of either one of the channel paths, right before the mixer. At the mixer, mute the channel with the FX Loop to guarantee no signal is passing through. For the other channel, set the pan to full center - this allows both sides of the stereo spectrum for that channel to pass through to the analog outputs on the unit. The upside for this method is that you get two stereo outputs FX loop send is a stereo output. The downside is that you need to place the FX Loop before the mixer, so you have to apply any post-amp effects twice - once in each channel, which can run into DSP limit errors.

Line 6 POD HD500 as foot controller and expression: How?

The other method is to use the mixer to pan each signal full left and right and not bother using the FX Loop. Then the two sides have different processing. The upside is you can use some effects after the mixer, avoiding DSP limit errors. The downside is that they have to be true stereo effects, or the two signals will be mixed to mono. But you don't need to run the other cable to anything - just make sure it's plugged in. This isn't the case for the XLR outputs, though, which never sum to mono. Another thing to keep in mind is that some stereo effects affect one side of the signal differently than the other.

For example, the analog chorus and many of the delays. Thus, your PA tone would differ from your amp tone.

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The output from your FX Loop Send is the "dry" signal which you can send to your monitors , and the main outputs carry the "wet" signal, which you send to your PA. Then your Channel A left output is wet, and the Channel B right output is dry. The Pod provides two independent signal paths. This path independence can also be used to handle multiple instruments, for example setting Input 1 to guitar and Input 2 to mic. Follow the instructions from the previous section to route the audio to different outputs. First of all note that just because the input settings exists in the system menu, it is not necessarily a global setting.

There's a specific setting on this menu page to change whether it applies globally or per patch. The default setting is input 1: This is not ideal - if any of the non-guitar inputs are generating any noise, it is being thrown into your signal. So change input 1 to guitar only, unless you need to use those additional inputs.

Some people have noticed that changing input 2 to variax a digital input, which ensures silence when not connected or an unconnected Mic or Aux gives them a more desirable tone. The difference can be very subtle - I had denied a tonal difference for over a year before only recently beginning to clearly see the difference. For single-amp patches, Input 2: Variax is simple to use. For dual-amp patches, there is more work to do. If you already have a Dynamic or Distortion effect, that will sum to mono.

If I don't have one of those already in my patch, I like to use one of the following, listed in order of the DSP they consume: If you want to know exactly how the Pod is routing the inputs and audio streams, please check out the signal routing section. You will find your patches initially have less gain when using this. I like to try to make up the difference on the earliest effect s in my signal chain. For instance, if my first effect is a Screamer, I increase the Drive a bit and also the Output. If I don't have any effects, I increase Drive on my amp blocks.

The lower gain can also be a positive if you are getting breakup on your clean tones, although I cover other ways to dial in pristine cleans here. I have heard of splitting your guitar signal before the Pod and sending it to both the Guitar and Aux inputs, then setting Input 1: Aux thanks to Line 6 forum member anglepod. This would eliminate the need for a mono-summing effect, and reduce problems trying to dial in heavy amounts of gain in some cases.

It requires a little extra hardware but seems to be a better solution than using up effects blocks and DSP to try to force the signal into Channel B. Line6 says before this the impedance was always set to 1M, but I feel like something changed The unit seems more responsive to me.

Anyway, I like this setting at 1M or 3. This allows the loudest, tightest, and brightest tone to pass from guitar to Pod, which helps dial in the high gain tones I like. If you prefer a muddier or fuzzier distortion or looser feel, you may want a lower value. For the F-Ball amp model, I find it can get kind of gritty and nasty for the distortion if your guitar signal is a bit bright. When I want a smooth tone from this model, normally I like to use a Mid-Focus EQ to roll-off enough high-end to smooth the tone out. However, if I don't have enough DSP or effects blocks to do so, I will turn down the impedance to attenuate some highs.

I like it around K for this. Also, the "auto" setting works well - it matches the impedance to the first effect in your chain, which helps make fuzz boxes sound fuzzier. If the first block is the amp, your impedance is likely 1M, which is the setting for most amps.

The advanced manual shows you the input impedance values for each effect when you use "auto" on pages 2. Remember, if you set the input settings to apply per patch, just because you changed the setting on one patch doesn't mean you are using the same settings for the patch you're currently tweaking. If the patch is noisy or you can't get the tone clean enough, be sure to double-check these settings. Effects will sound very different depending on how they are ordered see Effects Ordering section and this is particularly the case for the amp modeling.

Also note that you can change the send and receive levels for the loop. There have been complaints that the FX Loop is incredibly noisy. It definitely adds noise, but not to the point where it is unusable. I don't like to use it to do simple things like clean boosts or to force mono-summing, but since its DSP cost is so low, sometimes it's the only available effect to do so.

I've also read the loop causes your signal to lose a significant chunk of volume. I believe these claims, but I have not tried to determine how bad this actually is. Be aware that you may need to compensate for the loop. If you can't do that, you can increase the Return level on the loop itself. The mixer allows you to adjust the panning and volume of both channels. I generally use mono patches. I find the best way to do this is to mute one channel, and pan the other one to center.

You'll get more volume by panning both channels to center, but I find this isn't necessary since the mixer lets you boost channel volume. There's another reason I like to only use one channel, which I cover in the next section.

Just like the amp volume knob, the mixer boosts the level at that place in the chain, which can cause effects behind it to distort. Be sure to understand how the pan controls work. Every line in the Pod's signal chain is a stereo signal. If you pan full left on that channel, only the left side is going to pass through the mixer, into the left half of the mixer output. The left and right signals from that channel are not both being pushed into the left output of the mixer. The right half is essentially muted. The mixer is only mixing the left signals of channels A and B into the left half of the mixer's output.

Line 6 POD HD500 Pilot's Handbook Manual

Same for the right half of the signals. Effects that affect dynamics or distortion are sensitive to what is being sent into them, compared to non-dynamic effects. Be aware of how ordering effects matters, and experiment with each effect before or after a compression or distortion element. For instance, the whole section on distortion character was mostly about how the way a signal is EQ'ed impacts how distortion will operate. EQ before distortion sounds completely different from EQ after distortion. This equally applies to Wah pedals, phasers, choruses, and other effects. On the other hand, certain effects will operate virtually the same and have negligible impact on other effects independent of where it occurs in the effects chain, such as a pitch shifter.

The general consensus is to make this the first effect in your chain. There it will simply mask your pickup noise when you are not playing. It has the most impact on tone at the end of the chain but can lead to unnatural sounding cut-off on notes. An interesting place for it is after a compressor but before distortion. This is how Periphery gets their very punchy tone, going quickly from searing power chords to complete silence.

For more on noise gates, see here. Generally, you get the expected swooshing sound behind your distortion phase, but placing it beforehand can give a very difficult to describe but interesting sound. I kind of like it in this position, because it has less of a swooshing sound to it, which I find detracts from the actual music. It also makes your distortion character change, which makes it a bit more interesting, especially if you're playing a very repetitive part, such as straight palm-muted single notes.

I use mod effects in both positions. I don't know how anyone gets away with putting delay before a distortion phase. The distortion will compress it and cause the delayed signal to be just as loud or nearly as loud as what you are currently playing, sounding like two guitars fighting for space, playing different things at the same time. People have said EVH put his delay in front his amp distortion, but I can't get it to sound right. I think they're wrong and his echoplex was being used for tonal changes, not actual delay.

I generally put my delay and reverb last or close to last in the chain. I will try again these steps you provided, keeping in mind it looks like what I've tried repeatedly already. Are there any dummies books for this? I have three people here right now scratching their heads and they aren't stupid either. Ok so I tried it your way three times with two different XLR chords and still no sound. So I tried going to the Line 6 connectivity section. Keep in mind, I'm just trying to hook up to the one amp.

This time I tried it the POD manual way. Now I should mention, my instrument is plugged directly into the amp. Should it be plugged into the POD. I may try that next to see what happens. Ok, I connect L6 "out" of the pod into the L6 "in" on the back of the head and turn on pod first with Master at 0 so I don't accidentally blast myself. After the Pod starts completely I turn on the Amp and wait a few minutes for the tubes to heat up then I take it off standby and turn the Master to about oclock.

When using L6 link I control everything with the Pod.


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You're going to plug your guitar into the Guitar in on the pod. When I use the L6 link I leave both channel knobs drive to vol on the amp at zero, I simply don't need them. In fact whenever I start these things up and shut down I turn all the knobs to zero. I only use the master on the Amp and the Pods master will be used to control overall volume. When you set up a patch your going to need to set volumes appropriately so they're even across the board. I don't use channel B when using the pod but I suppose you could figure out how to. Press and hold the veiw button for settings, scroll thru the pages with the Navigation button left and right, that round knob with faint arrows pointing up, down and all around.

The little buttons below the screen correspond with the settings accordingly. As for the channel switching you can manually switch channels with the switch on the front of the amp, till you learn about making a dual amp patch. It took me a long time to get used to this interface so when I got frustrated I would revert back to just plugging into the front so I could play the guitar with some power, lol. Meaning take a break and come back to it. If I'm frusterated I won't learn anything worthwhile.

I always step back and do something else and then come back. Every time I come back It got easier and easier. When shutting down the amp I turn the master to 0 wait 30 seconds, put it standby wait a minute, then power down. This prevents a pop from happening which I think may not be good for the tubes, not sure about this. If anything it lets things drain a bit. What cabinet are you using?

Line 6 Pod HD tutorials? - Guitar Tricks Forum

Make sure you check back to my post as I'm updating it so I don't make tracks all over this thread, lol. Other than turning it on and setting the Master, you won't touch the DT again. The 3 screens you can see by pressing the View button are the chain of effects, the setup screen and a big block screen showing bank and patch number. When you are on the setup screen, use the round Nav button to the right of the screen to scroll left and right through the other setup pages.

I know it's a pain but you do need to read the Advanced Guide and the L6 Connectivity Guide to get all this. If you don't have them, you can get them from the Manuals link on the Support page. I hate that little screen on the POD. The community has given you some very good advice, thus far. Here's a video that might help: Line 6 Dream Rig: Basic Setup and Connections. Thank you guys, I will try all this.

My friend came over.

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He used to sell this stuff at both of the big box shops so he has knowledge about these things. I also had another geeky friend of mine trying to help me and we all were reading the manuals and watching the videos. The first thing I would put right at the top of the Quick Start menu in big letters is to update the drivers. It took me a bunch of tries, but it finally worked right. I couldn't get the L6 screen till I did that.

I did get some info from Line 6 on FB this morning that showed me these other ways I saw. I will try those later today Maybe. When we finally did get the L6 screen on the POD to show up, I just got tired of hearing nothing and pulled the guitar plug out of the front of the amp and into the POD itself.